Every year, giant leatherback sea turtles crawl out of the Pacific onto the sand at Playa Grande to lay their eggs. Seeing one is one of the most remarkable wildlife experiences in Costa Rica, and it happens right on our doorstep.
Meet the leatherback
The leatherback (baula in Spanish) is the largest turtle on Earth. Adults can weigh more than 400 kg and measure up to two metres long. Instead of a hard shell, they have a flexible, leathery back, which is how they got their name. They feed mostly on jellyfish and swim thousands of kilometres across the open ocean.
The eastern Pacific population is critically endangered, which is why Playa Grande and its neighbouring beaches were protected as Las Baulas National Marine Park (Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas).
When is nesting season?
Leatherbacks nest at Playa Grande roughly from October to February. A female comes ashore at night, digs a deep nest above the high-tide line, lays her eggs and covers them before returning to the sea. About two months later the hatchlings dig their way out and race to the water.
Sightings are never guaranteed. Numbers have fallen sharply over the past decades, so some nights no turtles arrive at all.
How to see them responsibly
Go with an official guided tour. During nesting season the beach is closed to the public at night, and visits are only allowed with park-authorised guides, who wait for rangers to spot a turtle before bringing small groups onto the sand.
Book ahead. Group sizes are limited each night. Ask locally or at the park ranger station in Playa Grande for current tour times and prices.
No flash, no lights. Phones, flashlights and camera flashes confuse turtles and hatchlings. Guides use dim red light only.
Be patient. Tours can involve a long wait at the ranger station before a turtle is spotted.
During the day, keep off marked nests and never disturb tracks or hatchlings.
Other turtles you might see
Olive ridley and Pacific green (black) turtles also nest on beaches in Guanacaste. Your guide can tell you which species are active during your stay.
Stay nearby
Casa Perico Azul is a few minutes from the park ranger station, so you can be back at the villa soon after a late-night tour.